Net Worth Calculator — Track Your Assets and Liabilities
Add your assets and liabilities to calculate your total net worth with a visual breakdown. All calculations happen locally — nothing leaves your browser.
What is net worth? Net worth is everything you own minus everything you owe: total assets minus total liabilities. A household with $365,000 of assets and $225,000 of debts has a net worth of $140,000. The figure can be negative, which is normal early in a career when student loans or a new mortgage still outweigh savings. It measures accumulated wealth at one moment, not income.
How to Use the Net Worth Calculator
- List your assets at current market value — Cash, savings, investment and retirement accounts, property, vehicles, business equity. Use what each would fetch today, not what you paid for it. Overwrite the three sample rows and press Add Asset for more.
- List every debt at its current balance — Mortgage, student loans, car finance, credit cards, personal loans, tax owed. Use the balance outstanding today rather than the original amount borrowed, and include anything on a buy-now-pay-later or interest-free plan.
- Name each line so the chart is readable — The name field labels the bar. Keeping entries specific — "Roth IRA" rather than "Investments" — is what makes the breakdown useful when you come back to it in six months.
- Read your net worth and the debt-to-asset ratio — The headline figure turns from green to red when it goes negative. Debt-to-Asset is your liabilities as a percentage of your assets: 100% means the two exactly cancel, and anything above it means a negative net worth.
- Compare bar lengths in the breakdown — Each bar is that item's share of assets and liabilities combined, sorted longest first, with assets in green and debts in red. It shows concentration at a glance — one very long green bar usually means most of your wealth sits in a single illiquid asset.
- Write the total down before you leave — Nothing is saved. There is no account, no cookie and no data in the URL, so closing or reloading the tab restores the sample figures. Copy the net worth and the date into a spreadsheet or note if you want to compare quarters.
How Net Worth Is Calculated
The arithmetic is one subtraction, which is exactly why it is such a durable measure — there is nowhere for an assumption to hide.
Net worth = total assets − total liabilitiesWith the sample values loaded — $15,000 of cash, $50,000 of investments and $300,000 of property against a $200,000 mortgage and $25,000 of student loans — that is $365,000 − $225,000 = $140,000. Every row you add or remove is re-totalled immediately, so you can watch a figure move as you correct it.
Debt-to-asset ratio = total liabilities ÷ total assets × 100The same example gives 225,000 ÷ 365,000 = 61.6%. This ratio is the useful companion to the headline number because it is scale-free: $140,000 of net worth means something quite different when it sits on $365,000 of assets than on $3.65 million.
| Debt-to-asset ratio | What it means arithmetically |
|---|---|
| 0% | No debt at all — net worth equals total assets |
| Under 50% | Assets are more than twice your debts; more than half of what you own is genuinely yours |
| 50 – 99% | Positive but leveraged. Common for homeowners early in a mortgage |
| Exactly 100% | Assets and debts cancel; net worth is zero |
| Above 100% | Negative net worth — you owe more than you own |
These are descriptions of the arithmetic, not targets. A 70% ratio on a recently bought home with a stable income is a very different situation from 70% built on credit cards, and no single percentage is right for everyone.
How the breakdown chart is drawn
The horizontal bars are not a comparison of assets against debts. Each bar's width is that line's share of assets and liabilities added together, sorted longest to shortest, with assets in shades of green and liabilities in shades of red. Reading it that way tells you where concentration sits: if one green bar dwarfs the rest, most of your net worth depends on a single valuation, and if a red bar is near the top of the list that debt is doing most of the damage. Lines with an amount of zero are left out of the chart but still appear in your list.
What Counts, and What Number to Use
The hard part of a net worth statement is not the subtraction, it is deciding what a thing is worth. Consistency matters more than precision — use the same basis every time so the trend is meaningful even if any single figure is approximate.
| Item | Side | Figure to use |
|---|---|---|
| Current and savings accounts | Asset | Today's balance |
| Brokerage and retirement accounts | Asset | Current market value; consider a haircut for tax due on withdrawal |
| Your home | Asset | A realistic sale price, with the mortgage listed separately as a liability |
| Cars, bikes, equipment | Asset | Second-hand resale value, not the price you paid |
| Business ownership | Asset | A defensible valuation, or leave it out and note it separately |
| Mortgage | Liability | Outstanding balance today, not the original loan |
| Credit cards | Liability | Full statement balance, even if you clear it monthly |
| Student and car loans | Liability | Remaining principal |
| Tax owed, deferred bills | Liability | Amount due, if it is already incurred |
| Future salary, a pension you have not vested in | Neither | Not owned yet — leave it out |
Two entries reward extra thought. Retirement accounts are usually held pre-tax, so their nominal balance overstates what you could actually spend; some people record a reduced figure to reflect that, and either approach is fine as long as you keep to it. Your primary residence is the other: it is genuinely an asset, but you cannot spend it without moving, which is why many people also track a second number that excludes the house and its mortgage entirely.
Illiquid and sentimental items — jewellery, art, collections — are worth what someone will actually pay, which is often far less than an insurance valuation. If you would not sell it at the figure you are writing down, the figure is too high.
Reading the Trend Rather Than the Number
A single net worth figure says very little on its own. It is heavily determined by age, by whether you own property, by whether you live somewhere with student debt, and by market prices on the day you happened to look. What it does well is show direction. A number that rises quarter after quarter means assets are growing faster than debts, regardless of the absolute level.
Because this tool stores nothing between visits, the trend has to live somewhere else. The simplest approach that works is a spreadsheet with one row per quarter and four columns: date, total assets, total liabilities and net worth. Take the reading at the same point each quarter, on the same basis, and resist the temptation to re-value your house every time the market moves. Two or three years of that is worth far more than any single precise valuation.
Expect the line to be lumpy. Buying a car drops net worth immediately and then bleeds slowly as it depreciates. Buying a house often barely moves it at all, since the asset and the debt appear together, and it is the mortgage payments that shift it afterwards. A market fall shows up instantly in investments even though nothing about your saving has changed. None of that is a signal to act; the useful comparison is year over year, not month over month.
This calculator is informational and only as accurate as the valuations you enter. It does not account for tax on retirement withdrawals or asset sales, transaction costs, or the difference between an appraisal and a real offer. For decisions about borrowing, selling assets or estate planning, speak to a qualified financial adviser or accountant.
Frequently Asked Questions
Assets include anything of value you own: cash and savings, investment accounts (stocks, bonds, retirement funds), real estate equity, vehicles, valuable collectibles, and business ownership. Use current market values, not purchase prices.
Liabilities include all debts and financial obligations: mortgages, auto loans, student loans, credit card balances, personal loans, and any other outstanding debts. Use the current balance owed, not the original loan amount.
Calculating quarterly or annually is sufficient for most people. Frequent checks can be motivating if you're making progress, but don't obsess over short-term fluctuations. The goal is to see a positive long-term trend.
Use Cases
Financial Health Check
Get a clear snapshot of your overall financial position at any point in time.
Debt Reduction Planning
See how paying down liabilities impacts your overall net worth and financial standing.
Wealth Tracking
Monitor your net worth over time to ensure you're building wealth consistently.
Major Life Decisions
Evaluate whether you can afford major purchases like a home or car based on your net worth.